Ani Mahserejian likes to tell a tale about her squash soup, a classic Armenian wedding dish from Marash, where her maternal grandparents were raised. “One day,” Ani begins, “there was a wedding, and they made this soup. Everyone ate it, not realizing that they’d left nothing for the groom. Angered when he saw that none was left, he said: ‘Whoever ate the soup, let him go sleep with the bride!’” As Ani recounts the story, there’s a sparkle in her eye, followed by a pause. Then she breaks into laughter – though to be fair, the groom had cause to be so wildly upset. Ani’s soup is incredible.