WINNER OF A 2018 ASSOCIATION OF FOOD JOURNALISTS AWARD:
BEST FOOD COLUMN
When dinner is nearly ready, Abigail Boehm beckons her granddaughter Tavia to the dining room. The precocious eight-year-old girl climbs atop the table crafted by Abi’s father from antique floorboards. White candlesticks go into candelabras adorned with intricate patterns. Then together, grandmother and child light the wicks.