WINNER OF A 2018 ASSOCIATION OF FOOD JOURNALISTS AWARD:
BEST FOOD COLUMN
In certain families, during particular meals, one senses the presence of ancestral spirits. It’s an echo rendered in texture and spice, in dialogue and flavor. Traditional recipes are a form of communion between past and present.
When Nick and Carol Kafkalas gather with their two sons for dinner in their white-tiled New Jersey home – a nightly ritual even now that Anthony and Nick Jr. are in their twenties – there are constants. One finds good salty feta, dressed in olive oil. Kalamata olives, briny and dark like aubergines, move easily from meze to meal.