Jenn Hall

Spoonful: When We Gather – Greek Feast with the Kafkalas Family – 2018 AFJ Award, Best Food Column

In certain families, during particular meals, one senses the presence of ancestral spirits. It’s an echo rendered in texture and spice, in dialogue and flavor. Traditional recipes are a form of communion between past and present.

When Nick and Carol Kafkalas gather with their two sons for dinner in their white-tiled New Jersey home – a nightly ritual even now that Anthony and Nick Jr. are in their twenties – there are constants. One finds good salty feta, dressed in olive oil. Kalamata olives, briny and dark like aubergines, move easily from meze to meal.

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Published January 17, 2017

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